Taste of Ethiopia expanding to South Austin – Austin American

Woinee Mariam plans to open a South Austin location of her excellent Pflugerville restaurant, Taste of Ethiopia, next spring in the mixed-use development at 3801 Congress Ave. in Austin. Mariam says she hopes to be open by March.

Below is my 2009 mini-profile of Mariam and her husband Solomon Hailu’s family and their journey from the Washington D.C. are to Austin:

From caring for her family to preparing a sublime array of traditional Ethiopian dishes at her Taste of Ethiopia restaurant in Pflugerville, Woinee Mariam throws her heart and soul into everything she does.

Taste of Ethiopia expanding to South Austin photo

Marcial Guajardo/Pflag

That passion compelled her to sit for four hours on the hard floor of her daughter’s new school in Washington, D.C., nearly three years ago.

Her daughter, Hewan, is autistic. And Mariam, dismayed by what she perceived as the disregard of the staff and apathy of the students, did not feel comfortable sending her to a new school that failed to meet the family’s standards. The determined mother wanted to take her daughter out of that school. Immediately.

After deciding with her husband, Solomon Hailu, that their family needed to relocate to find a better life, Mariam gathered their four adolescent children and moved to Cedar Park. Hailu, who would join the rest of the family soon after, had relatives here, and after researching school districts, the couple said they were certain the city would be a wonderful place to raise their children.

Upon her arrival in Texas two-and-a-half years ago, Mariam worked briefly at a bank before deciding it was time to realize her own dream. With the support of friends and family and an infectious exuberance, the small woman who had spent 17 years working in other people’s restaurants opened her own. Taste of Ethiopia was born.

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Spend two minutes in the little restaurant painted with comforting natural hues or on the breezy patio area sweetly scented by jasmine, and as the sounds of Bob Marley and traditional Ethiopian music permeate the mood, you drift into the warm peace that comes with being a member of Mariam’s extended family.

That family includes John Durant, one of Mariam’s former bank co-workers, who offered for free the services of his design firm.

“I knew they were just starting out, and the design and feel of the restaurant was the last thing on their minds,” said Durant. “It was something that I felt drawn to do, to help my friends make their dream a reality. Woinee is a woman of energy and love.”

Mariam extends that love and positive energy to her customers, greeting all with the smile of someone who looks like she’s gotten away with something, as her eyes sparkle and her gregarious nature almost dares you to ask her a question. Once you have, it’s off to the races, your conversation pinballing from children to music to philosophy and, of course, food.

“This is one of the most rewarding experiences in my life. I get to meet people from all walks of life,” Mariam said. “There is nothing more satisfying than to see people come and dine and leave satisfied. I enjoy serving the first-timers who never had Ethiopian food. I see the skepticism in their eyes and hear it in their tone of voice. Then, I comfort them and explain the traditions and the food.”

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Her people skills are surpassed by her hand in the kitchen. Each dish features fresh ingredients, traditional spices from Ethiopia and a balance of robust and subtle flavors that make each item its own revelation.

“All dishes have to be as authentic as they can be, cooked with spices from Ethiopia,” Mariam said. “I credit my mom for teaching me the essence of cooking.”

“What I learned during my early years has paid off,” she said. “Major holidays such as New Year, Easter (the end of a 60-day fasting season), Christmas and other holidays are celebrated by preparing a major feast consisting of the dishes that are being served at the restaurant.”

With her gratitude, easy nature and love for food and people, Mariam has brought that sense of celebratory and communal feasts to Taste of Ethiopia.

A choice made in the best interests of a family has become a boon to the food lovers of greater Austin.

For Woinee Mariam and Solomon Hailu, the days of searching for the right home seem well behind them.

“It’ll take a bulldozer to move me from Austin,” Hailu said.

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